Sarajevska Brewery, Sarajevo, Bosnia Herzogovina

arajevska Pivara is located in just across the river from the heart of Sarajevo. The establishment serves both as a brewery as well as a restaurant. The restaurant is a spacious two story dining establishment that exudes an aura of history and luxury. The brewery produces Sarajevska beer and water as well as Pepsi products. It is one of the few locations in Bosnia where I found Pepsi readily available...although I normally enjoyed their exceptional beer. The brewery was first opened in Sarajevo in 1864, standing as the first industry in the area.

The beer served at Sarajevska Pivara includes Sarajevska, Sarajevska Premium and Sarajevska Dark. The dark beer is very hard to find in Sarajevo. A few restaurants have made deals with the brewery to be able to serve the dark offering. It is not available in bottles...only draft. Although I normally don't care for dark beer, Sarajevska produces a slightly sweet full-bodied version that I found mildly enjoyable. However, my favorite by far was the Sarajevska Premium.

When I was preparing my trip to Bosnia, I was uncertain about the local food. I did a bit of research, but did not come up with much information that I found useful. What I found upon my arrival in Bosnia was that they have beef the way beef should be served. They eat a lot of veal, which they butcher at six months. The beef is normally around two years old. Older beef is generally made into other products like dried beef. Because the beef isn't pumped with a bunch of steroids and produced locally, the flavor and texture is far better than most cuts of beef I have had in the United States. For that reason, I ate a great deal of beef during my trip...far more than my normal diet allows for.

The beef at Sarajevska Pivara was a perfect example of beef done properly. My favorite offering was the Steak Gorgonzola, which was a Fillet Mignon-like cut of beef approximately eight ounces in weight smothered in a mild cheese sauce. The flavor of the beef was exceptional. The beef was uncannily tender and moist (I order my beef well done and am used to it being tough). Even thoroughly cooked the beef at Sarajevska Pivara was tender. This dish comes with a choice of french fries or vegetables. I enjoyed it with mixed vegetables, which consisted of potatoes, light green peppers (that I found in many Bosnian vegetable medleys) and eggplant. The meal was around 22 KM, which would translate to about 16 or 17 US Dollars. The beer was around 4 KM for a regular glass or 8 KM for a monster-sized glass (probably around a liter).

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Washington Marriott

I really hate to bash a hotel that has outgoing friendly staff. Especially considering the hotel is run by my favorite hotel chain. Not only is the Marriott Washington a Marriott property, it is not even a lesser property in the Marriott Family like Courtyard. This property is a full-fledged Marriott. There are some bright spots to this hotel, but not nearly what I have come to expect from a chain with the exceptionally high standards I have become accustomed to from Marriott.

Marriott Washington is located at 1221 22nd Street NW. A short walk west (about eight blocks) puts you in Georgetown with a wide selection of exceptional restaurants. A longer walk south (about a mile) puts you at the Lincoln Memorial. There are two nearby stops for the Metro train, the closest at George Washington University about a five to ten minute walk from the hotel. A train ticket to the Mall will run about $1.65 from this stop. If you plan to jump on and off the Metro during the day, a daily Metropass runs $7.20 for unlimited use for the day.

Getting to the hotel by car was not difficult. I arrived well before rush hour. Washington DC has an interesting layout, with traffic circles on most of the major roads. Navigating the traffic circles can be irritating, especially at rush hour. Coming from the South, I only encountered one and had little trouble getting on and off. When I was leaving at mid-morning two days later, the traffic circle was backed up and I had to wait to get on and off. Parking at the hotel was thirty dollars for self-park and thirty-four dollars for valet. There was also a ten percent tax on the parking. Parking is an overnight charge, so you are not charged by the number of days you are in the lot, you are charged by the number of nights. You can either park and take a ticket or have the hotel put the parking on your room reservation and code your room key for unlimited access in and out of the parking deck. The underground parking was tight to navigate with large cement columns. I encountered a car going the other direction and had to back up and let him pass to proceed, to give an indication of the tight quarters.

My room was on the third floor. The elevators from the garage access both the lobby as well as the guest rooms (the parking elevators at the Marriott in Alexandria dumps you in the lobby only). As I exited the elevators on the third floor, I was impressed by the large fitness facility. There were five treadmills, nearly as many stair-masters as well as quite a few other devices for the fit-minded. The machines had mounted televisions. Complimentary earpieces were available. The Marriott Washington has one of the nicest fitness facilities I have seen in any hotel I have visited. There was also a swimming pool, whirlpool and sauna accessed through a door on the far side of the fitness area. You have to go past the equipment to get to the pool. This area was in stark contrast to the immaculate fitness area. The pool floor looked dingy and unappealing. The whirlpool didn't look much better. The sauna looked appealing but was out of order.

When I arrived at my room, I wasn't sure if it would mirror the fitness room or the swimming pool. It was a combination of both. The room was nicely appointed with beautiful wood furnishings. The work area was adequate. A large flat screen television was offset to the left of the foot of the bed. The bed was comfortable, but the fitted sheets didn't fit. Come on, now...this is a Marriott! Sheets that don't fit?...you have got to be kidding me. The room was small but not bad. It appeared to have been remodeled, but not recently. It also appears that short-cuts were taken during the remodeling which I will get to shortly. The bathroom was small but well designed. The shower had a convex curtain rod to give the appearance of more room in the shower. The countertop provided extra space by placing the sink in the back corner with an L shaped countertop. For a tight space, the economical use of the area seemed well planned.

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National Museum of the American Indian

The National Museum of the American Indian - Washington DC, is one of three locations that make up the National Museum of the American Indian, with two other museums located at Suitland, Maryland and Bowling Green, New York. The Washington D.C. location opened in 2004 long after I moved from the D.C. area. I have wanted to visit this museum for a couple of years, but just haven't seemed to find a suitable chunk of time to visit. I took a recent vacation to the city, setting aside ample time to drink in the many facets of this excellent museum (a member of the Smithsonian Institution).

The National Museum of the American Indian stands out on the Mall because of the unusual architecture designed by Douglas Cardinal (Blackfoot) with a team of Native American architects. The building exhibits an exotic cliff-like appearance made from Kasota stone, giving the building a very southwestern feel. I arrived before the building opened at 10 am. This gave me an opportunity to examine the grounds around the building which have many hidden treasures. Signs tell a bit of the history of the landscape and how Native Americans employed various wildlife for food, conveyance or shelter. A small wetlands lies on the East end of the building facing the Capitol Building (which is the next building East). Waterfalls scrub exterior rocks known as grandfather rocks. A sign tells the story of the grandfather rocks and challenges visitors to see how many they can count. The Cardinal Directions are marked with exterior markers. Sculptures created by Nora Naranjo-Morse of the Santa Clara Pueblo tribe can be found on the grounds.

The main entrance is located on the East face of the building. Upon entering the building, there were two lines leading to magnetometers and security officers who conducted a cursory search of bags before permitting entrance. The museum is designed (like the Holocaust Museum) to be explored from the top (fourth) floor down. Elevators located across the first floor lobby allow large groups to travel together to the fourth floor. As my wife and I meandered around the exhibits, I noticed that there were several groups of school children with a museum guide providing educational lectures. They seemed content to allow me to listen in to their various discussions.

The Fourth Level contains a theater called Lelawi Theater. The day I visited, all theaters were not operational. There are two major exhibits on this floor called Our Peoples exhibition and Our Universe exhibition. As you exit the elevators, a large window shows a variety of artifacts along with monitors to further explore the origins of the displayed items. Drawers below the windows contain many more hidden treasures. The Our Peoples exhibition was located to the right behind the window collection. This exhibit contained several circular and semi-circular exhibits filled with a variety of artifacts and documentary videos of indigenous people. A variety of weapons and ancient artifacts were on display. Exhibits on specific groups were interspersed, with a final display of gold and clay items that were centuries old. The gold had obviously been polished, but it seemed almost unbelievable to think such rare and valuable art with an unbelievably rich history had one time been pillaged...and even more surprising that such an amazing collection had survived the centuries. This exhibit focuses primarily on Native History.

A hallway divides the Our Peoples exhibit from the Our Universe, with an interesting statue called Allies in War, Partners in Peace by Edward Hlavka in a circular room at the end of the dividing hallway. This statue was a gift from the Oneida Indian Nation of New York. Past the small room housing the statue is the Our Universe exhibit, where the lights are dimmed and the ceiling painted and lighted to resemble the universe. The structures dividing the individual displays in this area seemed far more intricate. The videos and artifacts were not unlike the previous exhibition, but the layout, along with trimming that gave many of the exhibits the feel of a lodge or other native structure made the displays seem welcoming and homey. As you meander your way around the outer displays, you are brought back to the central wall, where several benches provide an opportunity to rest your feet while learning more from the exhibit. Most of the displays are interactive. After completing the circuit, you end up in the dividing hallway which leads back out to the elevators and stairs which lead down to the next level. This exhibit discusses Native Belief Systems.

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United States Holocaust Museum

Never shall I forget that night, the first night in camp, which has turned my life into one long night, seven times cursed and seven times sealed. Never shall I forget that smoke. Never shall I forget the little faces of the children, whose bodies I saw turned into wreaths of smoke beneath a silent blue sky.

Never shall I forget those flames which consumed my faith forever.

Never shall I forget that nocturnal silence which deprived me, for all eternity, of the desire to live. Never shall I forget those moments which murdered my God and my soul and turned my dreams to dust. Never shall I forget these things, even if I am condemned to live as long as God himself. Never.

A plaque with this inscription, by Nobel laureate Elie Wiesel, was posted at one of the exhibits at the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum shedding a small ray of light on the dark place of an eloquent survivor of Auschwitz. I cannot remember if this plaque was placed by the bales of human hair that was sold in forty pound bales for boat bumpers and other use, or if it was at the exhibit with hundreds of shoes. I can only remember being moved to tears at the succinct anguish captured by Wiesel's words. Weisel had other things to say on this topic, but the most important was "For the dead and the living we must bear witness." That is the purpose of this somber, breath-stealing museum. To bear witness to unmentionable atrocities that some already try to claim never happened (or are exaggerated). Then General Dwight D. Eisenhower understood that people would one day deny the Holocaust. On April 15, 1945, General Eisenhower stated "I made the visit deliberately, in order to be in a position to give first-hand evidence of these things if ever, in the future, there develops a tendency to charge these allegations merely to propaganda.'"

I normally present my reviews in a chronological order, but felt the need to express the mood of this museum first. The quotes of first hand witnesses and survivors are the only way this dark period in our history can really be conveyed. In order to bring that element to bear on these exhibits, quotes and videos are used extensively. Some of the videos are hard to watch, and anyone who can watch them and not be moved, is simply not human. The graphic films are sensibly placed on video screens in recessed areas that require a certain height to view. This was a wise concept employed to deliver the stark truth of the holocaust while allowing a degree of reserve for younger visitors. But this is not Disneyland. Young visitors are still certain to be shocked by the exhibits. I remember meeting Corrie Ten Boom as a youngster, and listening to her biography, which were made into both a book and movie called The Hiding Place. That was my first exposure to the holocaust, and I remember that it had a profound impact on me. United States Holocaust Memorial Museum has been on my radar for a long time. A combination of intentional avoidance and schedule conflicts have postponed my visit until my most recent trip to Washington D.C. I regret that I waited so long for this experience.

First and foremost, the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum is funded by the generous donations of supporters. For visitors, it is free. It will require an emotional investment, a few hours of your time, and you are welcome to drop money into a donation box tastefully located outside the exhibit area. Passes are available beginning at 10 am. The passes are timed in fifteen minute intervals until 3:45 pm. The museum closes at 5:30 pm, but the videos shut down around 5:15 pm as visitors are encouraged to begin exiting the exhibit area. I arrived at 3:30 pm and was not required to obtain a pass (I visited in November, which is certain to be more favorable to unplanned visits). The two hours I allotted for this museum was not quite enough. I would suggest three hours to fully experience the museum, slightly more if you intend to also screen the fifteen minute documentary videos.

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